AHA Fruit Acid

INCI: AHA Fruit Acids.

What is it: AHA Fruit Acids are a group of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) derived from fruits. They are used for their exfoliating properties, and ability to reduce pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles.

pH: Formulations should be between 3.5–4.

Safety limit: Up to 10% in leave-on products, up to 20% in rinse-off products.

Formulas used in: Serums, creams, lotions, cleansers, masks, peels, toners, exfoliants.

Formulation notes: The efficacy of AHA Fruit Acids is very dependent on the pH. For maximum bioavailability, keep formulas to a pH of 3.5–4. AHAs are 50% bioavailable when the formula is at a pH of below 3.5. The higher the pH, the less bioavailable it becomes. Using 10% AHA in a formula with a pH of 6 would be less effective than using 4% AHA in a formula with a pH of 3.5. If making an emulsion, add during the cool-down phase.

Odour: Mild, slightly sour or fruity odour.

Form: Liquid.

Heat sensitivity: Up to 50°C.

Solubility: Water soluble.

Natural / synthetic status: Naturally occurring, however, it is generally synthetically produced for cosmetic use.

Contraindications: Do not use in conjunction with any forms of Vitamin C or Retinol (Vitamin A) as this can cause skin irritation. Topical application of AHAs can increase the risk of UV damage to the skin, so always ensure you are using a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.