Kokum Butter

INCI - Garcinia Indica Seed Butter.

What is it - Kokum Butter is a plant-derived fat extracted from the seeds of the kokum fruit. It is known for its moisturising and emollient properties, making it ideal for products aimed at softening and hydrating the skin. Kokum butter is commonly used in creams, lotions, balms, and lip care products, where it helps to improve skin elasticity and repair dry or damaged skin without feeling greasy.

pH - N/A.

Safety limit - It can be used up to 100%, however is typically not used more than 10%.

Formulas used in - Moisturisers, body lotions, lip balms, hand creams, hair conditioners, facial cleansers, after-sun products, eye creams, exfoliating scrubs, shaving creams, soaps.

Formulation notes - Kokum butter can be used in its raw form on the skin. Kokum butter can come refined or unrefined. Refined is softer, paler in colour and easier to work with. Unrefined kokum butter retains more nutrients however has a stronger odour, is harder and less pliable than refined kokum butter. Do not use over 10% butters in your formulas otherwise you will have stability issues. Kokum butter starts to melt at 35°C if you use over 10% the viscosity of your product will drop in hot climates. Kokum butter more stable than shea and mango butter and is less likely to cause grainess however grainess can still occur. This is happens when the butter is melted and it cools unevenly causing the stearic and palmitic acid in it to crystallise out. This can be avoided by quick cooling - once your formulas melted put it into an ice bath or the fridge until it has fully cooled. You can also temper your butter, the same way chocolatiers do it. Gently warm the butter to room temperature around 20°C so that it reaches a soft consistency without being fully melted. This brings the butter to uniform temperature preventing your formula going grainy.

Odour - Mild neutral odour - unrefined has stronger odour.

Form - Solid butter.

Heat sensitivity - Melting point between 35°C to 40°C.

Solubility - Oil soluble.

Natural / synthetic status - Natural.

Contraindications - Kokum butter is generally safe for most skin types. those with allergies to nuts should heed caution. Always do a patch test when using new ingredients.