Shea Butter

INCI - Butyrospermum Parkii Butter.

What is it - Shea butter is a natural fat extracted from the seeds of the shea tree. It is widely used for its moisturising, emollient, and skin-conditioning properties. Rich in vitamins A, E, and F, it helps to nourish, soften, and protect the skin. It’s commonly found in products like moisturisers, body lotions, lip balms, and hair conditioners due to its ability to improve skin elasticity and provide hydration.

pH - N/A.

Safety limit - It can be used up to 100%, however is typically not used more than 10%.

Formulas used in - Moisturisers, body lotions, lip balms, hand creams, hair conditioners, facial cleansers, after-sun products, eye creams, exfoliating scrubs, shaving cream, soaps.

Formulation notes - Shea butter can be used in its raw form on the skin. Shea butter can come refined or unrefined. Refined is softer, paler in colour and easier to work with. Unrefined shea butter retains more nutrients however has a stronger odour, is harder and less pliable than refined shea butter. Do not use over 10% butters in your formulas otherwise you will have stability issues. Shea butter start to melt at 31°C if you use over 10% the viscosity of your product will drop in hot climates. Shea butter is one of the main culprits for graininess in balms and body butters. This is happens when the shea butter is melted and it cools unevenly causing the stearic acid in it to crystallise out. This can be avoided by quick cooling - once your formulas melted put it into an ice bath or the fridge until it has fully cooled. You can also temper your butter, the same way chocolatiers do it. Gently warm the butter to room temperature around 20°C so that it reaches a soft consistency without being fully melted. This brings the butter to uniform temperature preventing your formula going grainy.

Odour - Characteristic nutty earthy odour - unrefined has stronger odour.

Form - Solid butter.

Heat sensitivity - Melting point between 31°C and 38°C.

Solubility - Oil soluble.

Natural / synthetic status - Natural.

Contraindications - Shea butter is generally safe for most skin types. Those with allergies to tree nuts should heed caution. Always do a patch test when using new ingredients.