Vitamin C

INCI - Ascorbic Acid / Ascorbyl Palmitate.

What is it - Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl palmitate are both forms of Vitamin C commonly used in skin care for its ability to even the skin, brighten the skin, reduce pigmentation and increase collagen production. Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil soluble form of vitamin C and is more stable than Ascorbic acid.

pH - 2.5 - 3 for Ascorbic acid and 5-7 for Ascorbyl palmitate.

Safety limit - Up to 0.2%.

Formulas used in - Serums, creams, lotions, toners, eye creams, sunscreens, and cleansers.

Formulation notes - Ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable it is very sensitive to heat, oxygen and light and therefore oxidises quickly. It is better to use Ascorbyl Palmitate it solubilises in oil and has the same potency as Ascorbic acid.

Odour - Ascorbic acid has a slightly acidic odour, whereas Ascorbyl palmitate has a milder form.

Form - Powder or liquid.

Heat sensitivity - Up to 40°C for ascorbic acid and up to 70°C for ascorbyl palmitate.

Solubility - Ascorbic acid is water soluble, ascorbyn palmitate is oil soluble.

Natural / synthetic status - Naturally occurring however it is generally synthetically produced for cosmetic use.

Contraindications - Do not use in conjunction with AHAs such a glycolic and lactic acid or with Retinol (vitamin a) as this can cause skin irritation.