INCI - Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter.

What is it - Cocoa butter is the fatty portion that comes from the seeds of the the cocao bean. It acts primarily as an emollient, helping to soften and smooth the skin. It is a very solid butter particularly the unrefined version. Because of this it contributes to the texture and stability of creams, balms, and lotions by acting as a natural thickener.

pH - N/A.

Safety limit - Typically used up to 10%.

Formulas used in - Moisturisers, body butters, lip balms, hand creams, hair products, facial cleansers, after-sun products, eye creams, exfoliating scrubs, shaving creams, soaps.

Formulation notes - Cocoa butter can be used in its raw form on the skin, it is however a very solid butter so you would have trouble applying it. Cocoa butter can come refined or unrefined. Refined is softer, paler in colour and easier to work with. Unrefined cocoa butter retains more nutrients however has a stronger odour (it has a chocolate like odour which can be desirable), is harder and less pliable than refined cocoa butter. Do not use over 10% butters in your formulas otherwise you will have stability issues. Cocoa butter starts to melt at 30°C if you use over 10% the viscosity of your product will drop in hot climates. Cocoa butter is very solid and will provide better thickening properties than other butters. When using cocoa butter limit the amount of waxes used as cocoa butter functions as a wax would thickening and hardening formulas. Cocoa butter can cause graininess in balms and body butters. This is happens when the butter is melted and it cools unevenly causing the stearic and palmitic acid in it to crystallise out. This can be avoided by quick cooling - once your formulas melted put it into an ice bath or the fridge until it has fully cooled. You can also temper your butter, the same way chocolatiers do it. Gently warm the butter to room temperature around 20°C so that it reaches a soft consistency without being fully melted. This brings the butter to uniform temperature preventing your formula going grainy.

Odour - Characteristic chocolate odour - unrefined has stronger odour.

Form - Solid butter.

Heat sensitivity - Melting point between 30°C to 35°C.

Solubility - Oil soluble.

Natural / synthetic status - Natural.

Contraindications - Cocoa butter is generally safe for most skin types, but it can be comedogenic, meaning it may clog pores and worsen acne for those with oily or acne-prone skin. Additionally, its natural fragrance might irritate those with fragrance sensitivities. Those with allergies to cocoa should heed caution. Always do a patch test when using new ingredients.

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